Description
Wat Khao Tham Phra (วัดเขาถ้ำพระ) is one of the most interesting mountain temples in Northeast Thailand. The highly revered monk Luang Pu Sawaeng Samangkalo (หลวงปู่แสวง สุมังคโล) served as abbot of the temple until his death in late 2023 at the age of 93. King Bhumibol Adulyadej The Great visited with LP Sawaeng eight times at his isolated temple in the Phu Phan Mountains to discuss the dharma.
Wat Khao Tham Phra is recognized as one of the areas in Sakon Nakhon where the ancient Khmer civilization settled. While it doesn't have the ruins of a Khmer castle, like Prathat Phu Phek or Wat Phrathat Dum, it does have an ancient (incomplete) stone statue of the Buddha with a Khmer inscription that dates to the 11th century, the same time the previously mentioned Khmer "prasats" were built.
Wat Khao Tham Phra (วัดเขาถ้ำพระ) is located about 45 minutes from downtown Sakon Nakhon in the Phu Phan Mountain district of Kut Bak. After you pass under the temple's beautiful archway, you'll go for a short distance, and then the road will split: the left path heading up to the temple, and the right path leading to the Buddhist cave/cliff which is home to the ancient Khmer statue of the Buddha and other sacred sculptures.
We suggest staying to the right, and parking in the area just before the path that leads to the cave (which is marked with a sign). You can then hike down to the cave, and afterwards walk up to the temple. Better to walk the up the narrow road to the temple than driving your car, unless you are physically unable. It is a short walk and easy to do.
The brick and earth path that leads to the cave at Wat Khao Tham Phra (which translates to the Mountain Temple of the Buddha Cave) is a few hundred meters. The cave cliff shelters the ancient Buddha statue, as well as more recently built statues of the Buddha (and a statue of Ganesha), which are in advanced states of decay — symbolizing the decay of all worldly things.
While Wat Khao Tham Phra isn't considered a Thailand "monkey temple" like Phra Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi, there are monkeys in the surrounding forest. Monkeys hang out in forests near the cave and at the temple grounds on the hilltop.
It is important to note that these temple monkeys are generally not accustomed to tourists, so you shouldn't try to call them toward you or get too close for a photograph. These monkeys could become aggressive and scream at you with bared teeth if you get too close. That being said, you don't have anything to fear if you just let them be. And don't be frightened if you suddenly hear what seems like a ferocious monkey battle going on in the forest (which happens sometimes).
After leaving the Wat Khao Tham Phra cave and walking up to the temple grounds, you'll find many beautiful sculptures of traditional Thai village life, expansive views of Sakon Nakhon province, ancient Buddhist sculptures, and laterite brick walls and steps from over a century ago.
The gold chedi on the hilltop contains the remains of Luang Pu Sawaeng Samangkalo (หลวงปู่แสวง สุมังคโล). Nearby you'll discover the "The Hall of Karma," which contains Thailand's depictions of hell that serve as a warning to always act kindly and follow the dharma (i.e. teachings of the Buddha).
There also is a "holy well" (บ่อน้ํามนต์) at the temple, with sacred water that's said to come from Luang Pu Reusi (หลวงปู่ฤๅษี), also known as Phra Lersi, the legendary hermit monk with supernatural powers. The well is encased in small pavilion with a metal cage in front, which can be opened to access the well. LP Luang Pu Sawaeng said the well had great power to heal the sick and relieve sadness.
Check out our full gallery of nearly 100 images at: Wat Khao Tham Phra Photo Gallery.