Description
Wat Phrathat Dum (วัดพระธาตุดุม) is one of two ancient Khmer era castles (prasats) in Sakon Nakhon city, the other being Phrathat Narai Cheng Weng near Sakon Nakhon Rajabhat University. In Khmer prasat temples, carvings depicting mythological themes are often found on the lintels (stone support beams) above the doors.
At Wat Phra That Dum, these carvings are found on the north side lintel. Some Thai guides say that the lintel depicts a sleeping Vishnu (Narayana) and celestial angels riding timeless vehicles. We're not sure where this rumor started, but the lintel does not depict these things, as can easily be seen upon examination.
What the Wat Pra That Dum lintel does depict is a carved face of Kala, the personification of death, destruction, and time's ability to devour all things. He is flanked by elephants, a Singha lion, a turtle, and leafy scrolls (symbolizing the passage of time).
We know that it is Kala because of his monstrous mouth, and the fact that his image often was placed above the entrance of ancient temples in Southeast Asia. He was placed above the entrance, because while Kala has domain over the outer world, he has no control over the timeless inner sanctum of the temple.
The sacred inner room of Wat Phrathat Dum no longer has a ceiling, but there are two ancient sandstone carvings of the Buddha, which have been blessed with gold flake by Sakon Nakhon monks. The faithful throughout the province come to make merit in this chamber and pray for good fortune in the future.
Wat Phrathat Dum was built in the 11th century A.D., in the Baphuon style (but with fewer carvings) of the late Khmer empire. Baphuon is an ancient temple located Angkor, Cambodia. Like the Baphuon temple, the Sakon Nakhon ruins are built in sandstone on a laterite base. Next to the temple are the remnants of what were laterite moats.
The reason you find such ruins in Sakon Nakhon is because the region was once part of the Khmer empire. The most outstanding example of these local ruins is Phra That Phu Phek, located on a mountaintop and only accessible if you are hardy enough to climb almost 500 steps up a steep upgrade. There is also the ruins of an ancient Khmer bridge (called Saphan Khom) near the Sakon Nakhon city gate.
Wat Phrathat Dum has a Viharn (gathering place) behind it, which is guarded by sculptures of lions and tigers, the latter of which once ran wild in Sakon Nakhon. Inside the Viharn is a large Buddha sculpture surrounded by a number of smaller figurines of the Buddha.
As of 2024, Wat Phra That Dum has added quite a number of sacred statues to the grounds, making the site more attractive to spiritual visitors. Outside the Viharn are now gold statues of Thailand's 7 Buddhas of the Week. And below three sacred trees are statues of Phra Mae Thorani (the Earth Goddess), the legendary Thai monks Luang Pu Thuat and Somdej Toh, and the Hindu god Ganesha. There is also a statue of Phra Sangkachai, Thailand's "Fat Buddha" figure.
If you are in this area, we suggest also visiting the nearby Wat Pha Suttawas, which is home to the Museum of Achan Man Purithattha Thera and the avant-garde pagoda that houses the Museum of Luang Pu Louis Chanthasaro. Also be sure to check out the nearby Ma-Na Bistro & Cafe, one of our favorite Sakon Nakhon restaurants.
Browse our full photo gallery at: Wat Phra That Dum.
