Description
Located in the sparsely populated Northwest district of Nakhon Nam Un is the charming Wat Pa Phu Lon (วัดป่าภูโล้น), one of Sakon Nakhon's many hilltop temples. Crowned with a lovely unfinished chedi, this Buddhist temple is the home of a single, solitary monk, Luang Pu Chaiyong Analayo (หลวงปู่ชัยยงค์ อนาลโย), who has been the abbot and caretaker for 17 years.
Luang Pu Chaiyong, now 79 years old, is known for his dharma teachings, following in the forest tradition of the legendary Thai monk Ajarn Man. Back in 1997, when Thailand faced the Tom Yum Kung financial crisis, Luang Pu Chaiyong played a role in the famous “Gold for the Nation” campaign alongside Luang Ta Maha Bua. Donations of gold poured in from Buddhists across the country, and the campaign strengthened the Kingdom.
However, Luang Pu Chaiyong later admitted he felt uneasy. He worried that such large-scale fundraising might not truly fit the quiet path of a forest monk. With this reflection, he withdrew into seclusion within the Sakon Nakhon forests of Phu Lon, eventually establishing the simple Buddhist monastery that would later become Wat Pa Phu Lon.
Here, he deepened his focus on meditation and became the sole permanent resident and abbot of the temple, training other monks, ten of whom have gone on to establish their own Buddhist temples or meditation centers.
LP Chaiyong has lately been overseeing the building of a "chedi gate (สุ้มประตูเจดีย์) to accompany the, as yet unfinished, chedi (which has a striking orange interior). In Buddhist tradition, such gateways (or archways) symbolize the passage from the ordinary world into the realm of Dhamma, marking a threshold where one prepares the heart before entering the stupa. The structure serves as both a monument of faith and a teaching in itself, reminding all who enter that they are stepping onto the path of awakening.
The forests of Phu Lon that surround the temple are said to be enchanted. One night Luang Pu Chaiyong was walking in meditation in the forest, when the path suddenly filled with a mysterious light. Figures appeared (men and women with their hands folded in respect), some bowing, some sitting in silence. A man came forward and knelt before him, then just as quickly the light and the people faded away.
Luang Pu never gave any explanation for the vision. He simply shared the experience with a few students to illustrate the importance of earnest meditation, even in solitude, for it can be a beacon for invisible beings and a reminder of the power of pure compassion. He reminds us, “The deeper the Dhamma, the less need for words. People don’t come for explanations; they come to feel what we practice in our hearts.”
Wat Pa Phu Lon (วัดป่าภูโล้น) remains a beautiful refuge for anyone seeking peace. Surrounded by natural beauty, it is perfectly suited for meditation and reflection. But be aware, the long and winding dirt road that leads to the temple is not easy to traverse by car during the rainy season. If you do go, be sure that your car's carriage isn't too low to the ground. Trucks, SUVs and multi-purpose vehicles (MVPs) should be okay, but sportier cars may bottom out.
