Description
Wat Tham Sumontha Phaowana (วัดถ้ำสุมณฑาภาวนา) is also known locally as Wat Phasukaram (วัดผาสุการาม). The temple has been built beside a sandstone cliff and cave in the Phu Phan mountain range inside the Pa Ba Yao National Forest above Ban Pha Suk in the Wang Sam Mo District of Udon Thani (near the border of Northwest Sakon Nakhon).
The approach is paved but winding, so drivers unfamiliar with mountain roads should take it slow. The temple is closely associated with Phra Khru Sathukitcharak (พระครูสาธุกิจจารักษ์), widely known as Luang Pho Rianchai Mahapanyo (หลวงพ่อเหรียญชัย มหาปัญโญ), who was the temple's abbot until his death in 2022.
From Wat Tham Sumontha Phaowana's mountain setting you get expansive views of Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon, and Kalasin, and cool breezes most of the day. Architecturally, a long viharn hugs the rock face with a small shrine to Princess Sumontha (ศาลเจ้าหญิงสุมณฑา) nearby. Behind the cave and viharn a steep staircase climbs the cliff to a hilltop lookout.
It’s a short, breath-raising ascent, but the panorama from the top is the reward. On clear days, views roll toward the Phu Pha Lek (ภูผาเหล็ก) area of neighboring Sakon Nakhon. The grounds are also laid out simply and sympathetically with the forest, reinforcing the temple’s reputation as a quiet place of practice.
An Ubosot is currently being built on the hilltop, within which has already been placed a large sculpture of the Buddha which can be viewed by visitors. A large footprint of the Buddha is also located on the hilltop, which has road access only open during special events.
Local lore at Wat Tham Sumontha Phaowana ties the cave and crags to a famous Lao–Isan folktale involving Princess Sumontha (นางสุมณฑา), who was captured by the giant Kumbhand (กุมภัณฑ์) and hidden in a cave on this ridge. The elder son of the king eventually rescued her after a fierce fight, which formed the rugged sandstone cliffs of the temple. Read the full story at: Famous Thai Folktales.
Wat Tham Sumontha Phaowana (วัดถ้ำสุมณฑาภาวนา) is located about 90 minutes northwest of downtown Sakon Nakhon. Another temple in the vicinity worth visiting is Wat Pa Phu Lon and its solitary caretaker abbot Luang Pu Chaiyong Analayo.
